Day 5: Fairy Meadows to Rama Meadows
It continuously rained all the night and we have to return from Fairy Meadows in the morning. As we woke up the rain has stopped, but the Fairy Meadows and Nanga Parbat were completely covered with clouds and the whole surrounding was wet and frigid. We were concerned that if the rain gets down again we wouldn’t be able to climb down the Fairy Meadows, so we resolved to leave Fairy Meadows as early as possible.
We have no potential to climb down Fairy Meadows on foot, hence we decided to hire horses so that we can travel speedily and avoid being wedged due to rain. As we needed four horses and it was very early in the morning it took a little longer time for our porter to arrange for the horses, but he has managed to do so.
As soon as the horses were arranged our journey toward Fairy Point started on the same route by which we trek to Fairy Meadows. After spending three marvelous days we were leaving one of the most beautiful place on earth, the place that is enclosed by natural beauty under the shadow of mighty Nanga Parbat. The horses were smoothly and comfortably travelling on the stunning route that leads to the Fairy Point. Along the path there were rough patches and water streams but the horses were so well trained that they can carefully travel on that route.
Since the weather was uncertain and rain can start at any time hence we didn’t stop at any spot except at the Midway Hotel for a little while to take a break. It was a stunning journey on a dangerous but beautiful track, and we reached Fairy Point in an hour. This time we were neither tired nor out of breath, reaching Fairy Point we went straight to the dining hall, and placed an order for the breakfast. We were feeling really hungry as we left the Fairy Meadows in a rush and didn’t have the breakfast there.
The breakfast of Paratha and Omelet was served in about 30 minute, it was a good breakfast and the tea was tasty as well. Finishing the breakfast we went to wander around the Fairy Point, since our jeep will arrive at 1 PM at the pickup point to lead us back to Raikot Bridge, so possess an ample time to spare at Fairy Point. When coming to Fairy Meadows everyone has to lay out the time in advance for return journey so that the jeep can come at the point at a predefined time to pick the passengers. And this time is really critical as if the passengers are not present at pickup point at the time, the jeep will left without waiting. Visiting different places, and sitting at different points we were enjoying the time at Fairy Point.
The time goes by and now we have to leave Fairy Point and go toward the spot where we have to ride First Jeep till our pickup spot. Before pickup point there is a damaged route caused by land sliding some months ago, that route has to be crossed on foot as the road is so narrow that no vehicle can go on that route. The path was dangerous, but the locals there, help us to pass over that path. Our 2nd jeep was already present at the pickup point, and as soon as we ride the jeep our journey toward Raikot Bridge begins. This is the same rough and dirt route by which we made it here.
Later on close to 2 hours of drive we hit back to Raikot Bridge, the place from where our journey to Fairy Meadows started and reaching back to Raikot Bridge ends our expedition of Fairy Meadows. The weather at Riakot was too hot, while my family sits at a nearby hotel I started to fetch our luggage back that we stored in a shop before going to Fairy Meadows. Our program is to further visit to Rama Lake and Meadows today and for that we need to hire a jeep, but at this place the jeep rates were very high hence we decided to go to Jaglot and hire a jeep from there.
While travelling toward Jaglot on the famous Karakorum Highway our jeep driver asked us that as we are looking to rent a jeep for the trip, he can offer his services and at a reasonable rate as well. Finalizing with my family, we agreed to hire the jeep for rest of our trip. The jeep we hire is on daily basis and we have to fill up the petrol, the drive have to arrange for his own stay and food.
Rama Meadows was covered with clouds and there was little rain some time before we reached Rama. Because of the weather people at that place told us to hurry and visit Rama Lake because it might start raining again. The road from Rama Meadows to Rama Lake is rough and because of rain, it has become muddy and slippery too. While moving along that road we hit a point where we have to cut through a glacier, crossing that the glacier was really captivating. The weather at that spot was intensely cold as there are huge blocks of ice along both sides of the route and we were moving in between.
At approximately 10,800 feet above sea level Rama Lake is a big lake surrounded by snow covered mountains on all sides, and other side of Nanga Parbat can also be picked up from this position. Since the area was cloudy we were unable to clearly view Nanga Parbat from that spot.
Shuddering with cold, we captured some photos and then settled to leave Rama Lake as quickly as possible because there is a great probability of rainfall. Going back along that muddy road and crossing that ice burg we reach back to Rama Meadows. Now, as it was getting dark and cold, we have to arrange for our night stay. Along the way back toward Astore there were different hotels, but we found Wazir Guest House as a reasonable and a very nice hotel to stay.
We haven’t had our dinner yet so we asked the Hotel Manager for the restaurant, but was surprised to know that their cook has already gone because there were no guests in the hotel, and he informed us that we have to drive to the market for the food. But my wife had an idea and she inquired the manager if they own something that can be cooked and found that they have chicken and all other needed ingredients to prepare the chicken karhai (Chicken Currie). Recognizing that my wife resolved to cook chicken Kahlua by herself and it was after about 7 days that we delivered the dinner cooked by my wife.
After the delectable dinner, we got into the room. The Wazir Guest House is an excellent hotel with a reasonable cost, it is at a location from where one can easily drive either to Rama Lake or can reach Astore city. The rooms were clean and comfortable and the bed is neatly made, at the time we were there it was a power breakdown, but they have a backup power source (UPS) arranging. The staff at the guest house was very courteous and friendly. It was really cold outside, but they have provided us with clean blankets that help us to deliver a nice comfy sleep.